Lily58 Pro - DIY Build Guide / Log

Lily58 Pro - DIY Build Guide / Log

Tags: #lily58pro #lily58 #custom #keyboard #soldering #project

Last Reviewed: 16/03/2025

Status: Completed - v1.0

Important Notices, Information, Tips, Tricks and Recommendations

What I Wanted

Split Keyboard
Custom Firmware
DIY but not Extremely complex for a First Time Keyboard
RGB !!!

Tips, Tricks and Recommendations

Use 280 Celsius on your Soldering Iron - or convert that to Freedom Units -
- The solder should turn liquid in 2-4 seconds
- Mainly used 0.6mm diameter solder, with 2.0% flux
- The first solder would need 350 degrees 4-5 seconds. That wasn't a great experience
If you unsure if the Diode is oriented correctly, you can use a Multimeter to test it
- Search for the Diode Symbol ( |> | ) or set your Multimeter to Resistance Mode
- Assuming the Multimeter Cables are Red > Positive and Black > Negative
- Put the Probe Ends on the Diode
- Value of 1 means that's the wrong side eg: your Red is on the “ | ” side of the Diode
- Sub 1 (eg: 0.78) means that you Black Probe is on the “ | ” side of the Diode
If you are not an experienced Solderer, it sucks at first, but once it “clicks”, it goes fast
- eg: once you learn the “wiggle and let it sit”, it's easy work for the Diodes
Bring time and patience - this will not be done in 30 - 60 minutes
- if it is, you probably don't need to read this guide

Troubleshooting and Diagnosing

Multimeter

Parts / BOM

Essential

Part Name	Qty.	Model / Details	Bought At	What Is It For?	Remarks
Lily 58 PCB	2		Kriscables - Lily58 Pro DIY Hotswap Kit	Where everything gets soldered onto
ProMicro Controller	2		Part of the Kit from Kriscables	The brains of the keyboard	* For Wireless, nice!nano is better due to ZMK Firmware
Diodes	58	1N4148W	Part of the Kit from Kriscables	Manages the flow of electrical current (can only flow in one direction)	* They also known as “SOD-123” * SMD are needed if you want Choc Switches * If the PCB you find has Through-hole, then you would need Though-Hole Diodes
Microcontroller (Hotswap) Sockets	4x 12		Part of the Kit from Kriscables	Allows to easily change (so, no need to solder) the micro controller	* You need 12 pins per side, per micro controller * So 2 Sides x 12 Sockets x 2 Micro Controller
Mill Max Socket Pins	4x 12		Part of the Kit from Kriscables	The “legs” of the microcontroller, which attach to the HotSwap Sockets	* Same as the Microcontroller Sockets * So 2 x 12 x 2
TRRS Connector	2		Part of the Kit from Kriscables	Connecting the boards together	* Never disconnect the TRRS cable when the board is connected to the PC. * Always disconnect the USB first * Not necessary if you going for a wireless build

Extras

Part Name	Qty.	Model / Details	What Is It For?	Remarks
Reset Switch Buttons	2
OLED Displays	2	OLED 128x32mm SSD1306 I2C	Seeing Layers, WPM, Battery Status, NumLock / CapsLock State, whatever you want	Use nice!view v2 if you building wireless, else Battery life will suck
Switches	58	MX or Choc Low Profile	What registers the “key press”	If choosing Choc Low Profile, remember to consider if the “legs” will be able to touch the PCB if you plan on adding Layers in between If you already have a mechanical keyboard, you can always use those switches instead
Keycaps	58	MX or Choc Low Profile	What your finger presses / what you see when you look at the key	MX and Choc Low Profile are not compatible with each other. This also applies to the switches If you already have a mechanical keyboard, you can always use those switches instead
USB-C (data + power) cable	1		Connect keyboard to the PC	If you building wireless, you just need it to flash
On / Off Keys	2		Turn the Board On / Off	This is only needed if you are building Wireless
Case			Makes everything prettier	A bottom case is HIGHLY recommended. Rest (top, silencing, middle) are optional
Batteries	2	110mah (3.7v Li-Po 301230)	Makes Wireless Keyboard Wireless	This is only needed if your are building Wireless Important is that they are 3.7V

Tools

You might already have this laying around if it's not your first electronic projects. Else you will need:

Part Name	Qty.	What Is It For?	Remarks
Soldering Iron	1	To solder
Tweezers	1	Holding Components in Place Briding components for testing
Solder	Some	Like hot glue, but for electronics	Ideally, Lead Free
Solder Wick	Some	Fix soldering mistakes	A Solder Pump is also a nice to have. It's not an “or” it's an “and” with Solder Wick

Build & Customization Guide

Building Steps Overview

Solder SMD Diodes to the PCB
- make sure they are aligned correctly
- this is now your BOTTOM
Solder Hotswap Sockets of the Microcontroller to the PCB
- on the TOP side
Solder the Pins / Legs on the Microcontroller
- Face down controller on the Hotswap Sockets
- Legs fully in, solder in an X Pattern
Flash Basic Firmware
Manually bridge each key to make sure they are working
- much easier to find and fix now then later
Solder the Key Switches
Solder the Hotswap Sockets for the Display
- optional if not using a screen
Solder / Bridge the Screen Pins
- if if not using a screen, good idea since no downside from doing it
Solder the TRRS / Reset Button
Solder underglow RGB
- optional if RGB-less / wireless
Mount Bottom Plate
Mount Middle / Keyswitches Board
Add each individual Key Switch
Add Top Plate
Add Key Caps
Repeat for other Keyboard Half
Enjoy!

Customizing Steps Overview

Make / Adapt Keys, eg using QMK Online Configurator
- Convert your JSON to .c file
Make a new Keymap with QMK
Paste / Edit your Keymaps .c file
Flash your microcontroller

Step-by-Step

Step	Step Overview	Step Details	Notes
01	Solder the Diodes to to the bottom side of the PCB	* I recommend using Painter's Tape or similar and mark the TOP side of the PCB (ask me why) * Solder a bit of Solder to one side of the Diode Receiver * Using Tweezers, hold the Diode in place, heat the previous solder joint until it falls / push into place * Solder the other leg of the Diode
02	Solder the Controller's Hotswap Sockets	Basically it's the one surronded by a Squared Line\ \ * Put the Sockets on the TOP side of the PCB * Flip the PCB over * Solder the legs on each corner * Check the Socket is leveled * Solder the other legs	You can technically solder the Controller directly to the board, but I HIGHLY recommend against it Swapping the controller later, in case it breaks or you want a different one will be a massive PITA.
03	Solder the Legs of the Microcontroller	* With the Controller FACING DOWN * Put the Mill Max Pins into the sockets. Make sure they are inserted all the way down * Solder the Pins
04	Flash the Microcontroller	* I recommend flashing with the default / a simple firmware / config, so yousure it's a good / working one * To enter flash mode on the ProMicro, just brige GND with RST 2x times * If you flashing via CLI, the command is something like: `qmk flash -kb lily58/rev1 -km default`
05	Test Each Key	* It's much easier to test - and fix - any issue now then later * Using Tweezers or your Multimeter, bridge each of the connections * Make sure you get one and exactly one key input / signal * If a key outputs multiple values: * you probably have a solder bridge * or a diode is broken * If a key doesn't output anything: * check your diode, even more they solder joints and orientation * maybe the pin on the controller * Make sure the key actually have a function you can test - eg: “a” -
06	Solder the Howswap Switch Sockets	* On the BOTTOM side of the PCB * Remeber that the Socket will go in both ways, but only one way will leave the Hole Available for the Switch * Put the Hotswap Socket In * Heat up one leg / solder point and apply Solder * With your finger on top of it to keep it in place, let it cool down * Solder the other “leg”	While you can technically solder the Switch directly to the PCB, I highly recommend against it It's very little cost, and unless you are 100% sure you won't want other switches, ever, it's worth to add them Repairs are also much easier, since you can just swap the switch instead of having to solder it out
07	Solder / Bridge the Screen Pins	* On the TOP side of the PCB * Bridge the 4 Jumpers, by soldering them 2 by 2 Vertically * Even if you don't plan on using the OLED Screens, still recommended, since there is no harm in having them bridged
08	Solder the TRRS / Reset Button / OLED Hotswap Socket	* Solder the TRRS * Solder the Reset Button * If using a Screen, Solder in the Hotswap Socket
09	Final Test Pre-Assembly	* Now it's a good point to put the Screen on and Check it everything works * Bridging / Activating the Switches should also be working as expected
10	Solder the Underglow RGB	* By far the most challenging solder, mainly on the dables * Remember the Cable will go on the BOTTOM side * Solder the 5V, Signal and GND with Cables * Solder the cables to the holes in the PCB * Remember that you can both solder the cables in the same direction or both pointing from in> outwards
11	Assemble the Case	* Add Screws and Raisers to the Bottom Layer * Add OLED Cover Screws and Raisers to PCB Layer * PCB Layer on Top of Bottom Layer * Dampening Layer * Top Layer * Everything Still Working? * Switches * OLED Covers * Keycaps	If you have less layers, just skip the ones you don't have
12	If building Wireless, Battery time	* Solder the On / Off Switch to the board * Solder the JST Plug to the Board * Connect the Battery	A JST Plug - or similar - is HIGHLY recommended. If you want a bigger battery (like the one on the photo), you need to get a “custom” bottom, so it can house the battery. If you want something that fits between Board and PCB the biggest you can probably fit is a 301230 LiPo ProTip: those numbers are the size of the battery. Just make sure you using a 3.7v one.