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| engineering:computer_science:projects:lily58_pro_diy_custom_keyboard [2025/03/16 11:53] – [Step-by-Step] carlossousa | engineering:computer_science:projects:lily58_pro_diy_custom_keyboard [2025/03/28 10:05] (current) – [Resources] carlossousa | ||
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| **Tags:** #lily58pro #lily58 #custom #keyboard #soldering #project | **Tags:** #lily58pro #lily58 #custom #keyboard #soldering #project | ||
| - | **Last Reviewed:** 16/02/2025 | + | **Last Reviewed:** 16/03/2025 |
| - | **Status: | + | **Status: |
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| ===== Important Notices, Information, | ===== Important Notices, Information, | ||
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| ^Part Name^Qty.^Model / Details^Bought At^What Is It For? | ^Part Name^Qty.^Model / Details^Bought At^What Is It For? | ||
| |Lily 58 PCB|2| |[[https:// | |Lily 58 PCB|2| |[[https:// | ||
| - | |ProMicro Controller|2| |Part of the Kit from Kriscables|The brains of the keyboard| | | + | |ProMicro Controller|2| |Part of the Kit from Kriscables|The brains of the keyboard|* For Wireless, nice!nano is better due to ZMK Firmware| |
| |Diodes|58|1N4148W|Part of the Kit from Kriscables|Manages the flow of electrical current (can only flow in one direction)|* They also known as " | |Diodes|58|1N4148W|Part of the Kit from Kriscables|Manages the flow of electrical current (can only flow in one direction)|* They also known as " | ||
| |Microcontroller (Hotswap) Sockets|4x 12| |Part of the Kit from Kriscables|Allows to easily change (so, no need to solder) the micro controller|* You need 12 pins per side, per micro controller \\ * So 2 Sides x 12 Sockets x 2 Micro Controller| | |Microcontroller (Hotswap) Sockets|4x 12| |Part of the Kit from Kriscables|Allows to easily change (so, no need to solder) the micro controller|* You need 12 pins per side, per micro controller \\ * So 2 Sides x 12 Sockets x 2 Micro Controller| | ||
| |Mill Max Socket Pins|4x 12| |Part of the Kit from Kriscables|The " | |Mill Max Socket Pins|4x 12| |Part of the Kit from Kriscables|The " | ||
| - | | | | | | | | | + | |TRRS Connector|2| |Part of the Kit from Kriscables|Connecting the boards together|* Never disconnect the TRRS cable when the board is connected to the PC. \\ * Always disconnect the USB first \\ * Not necessary if you going for a wireless build| |
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| ==== Extras ==== | ==== Extras ==== | ||
| ^Part Name^Qty.^Model / Details^Bought At^What Is It For? | ^Part Name^Qty.^Model / Details^Bought At^What Is It For? | ||
| - | |Lily 58 PCB| | | | | | | + | |Reset Switch Buttons|2| | | | | |
| - | | | | | | | | | + | |OLED Displays|2|OLED 128x32mm SSD1306 I2C| |Seeing Layers, WPM, Battery Status, NumLock / CapsLock State, whatever you want|Use nice!view v2 if you building wireless, else Battery life will suck| |
| - | | | | | | | | | + | |Switches|58|MX or Choc Low Profile| |What registers the "key press"|If choosing Choc Low Profile, remember to consider if the " |
| - | | | | | | | | | + | |Keycaps|58|MX or Choc Low Profile| |What your finger presses / what you see when you look at the key|MX and Choc Low Profile are not compatible with each other. This also applies to the switches \\ If you already have a mechanical keyboard, you can always use those switches instead| |
| - | | | | | | | | | + | |USB-C (data + power) cable|1| | |Connect keyboard to the PC|If you building wireless, you just need it to flash| |
| - | | | | | | | | | + | |On / Off Keys|2| | |Turn the Board On / Off|This is only needed if you are building Wireless| |
| - | | | | | | | | | + | |Case| | | |Makes everything prettier|A bottom case is **HIGHLY** recommended. Rest (top, silencing, middle) are optional| |
| - | | | | | | | | | + | |Batteries|2|110mah (3.7v Li-Po 301230)| |Makes Wireless Keyboard Wireless|This is only needed if your are building Wireless \\ Important is that they are 3.7V| |
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| ==== Tools ==== | ==== Tools ==== | ||
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| ^Part Name^Qty.^Model / Details^Bought At^What Is It For? | ^Part Name^Qty.^Model / Details^Bought At^What Is It For? | ||
| |Soldering Iron|1| | |To solder| | | |Soldering Iron|1| | |To solder| | | ||
| - | |Tweezers|1| | | \\ Holding Components in Place \\ | + | |Tweezers|1| | |Holding Components in Place \\ Briding components for testing| | |
| |Solder|Some| | |Like hot glue, but for electronics|Ideally, | |Solder|Some| | |Like hot glue, but for electronics|Ideally, | ||
| + | |Solder Wick|Some| | |Fix soldering mistakes|A Solder Pump is also a nice to have. It's not an " | ||
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| ===== Build & Customization Guide ===== | ===== Build & Customization Guide ===== | ||
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| ^Step^Step Overview^Step Details^Notes^Screenshot| | ^Step^Step Overview^Step Details^Notes^Screenshot| | ||
| - | |1|Solder the Diodes to to the bottom side of the PCB|* I recommend using Painter' | + | |01|Solder the Diodes to to the bottom side of the PCB|* I recommend using Painter' |
| - | |2|Solder the Controller' | + | |02|Solder the Controller' |
| - | |3|Solder the Legs of the Microcontroller|* With the Controller FACING DOWN \\ * Put the Mill Max Pins into the sockets. Make sure they are inserted all the way down \\ * Solder the Pins| | | | + | |03|Solder the Legs of the Microcontroller|* With the Controller FACING DOWN \\ * Put the Mill Max Pins into the sockets. Make sure they are inserted all the way down \\ * Solder the Pins| |{{ : |
| - | |4|Flash the Microcontroller|* I recommend flashing with the default / a simple firmware / config, so yousure it's a good / working one \\ * To enter flash mode on the ProMicro, just brige GND with RST 2x times \\ * If you flashing via CLI, the command is something like: \\ '' | + | |04|Flash the Microcontroller|* I recommend flashing with the default / a simple firmware / config, so yousure it's a good / working one \\ * To enter flash mode on the ProMicro, just brige GND with RST 2x times \\ * If you flashing via CLI, the command is something like: \\ '' |
| - | |5|Test Each Key|* It's much easier to test - and fix - any issue now then later \\ * Using Tweezers or your Multimeter, bridge each of the connections \\ * Make sure you get one and exactly one key input / signal \\ * If a key outputs multiple values: \\ * you probably have a solder bridge \\ * or a diode is broken \\ * If a key doesn' | + | |05|Test Each Key|* It's much easier to test - and fix - any issue now then later \\ * Using Tweezers or your Multimeter, bridge each of the connections \\ * Make sure you get one and exactly one key input / signal \\ * If a key outputs multiple values: \\ * you probably have a solder bridge \\ * or a diode is broken \\ * If a key doesn' |
| - | |6|Solder the Howswap Switch Sockets|* On the BOTTOM side of the PCB \\ * Remeber that the Socket will go in both ways, but only one way will leave the Hole Available for the Switch \\ * Put the Hotswap Socket In \\ * Heat up one leg / solder point and apply Solder \\ * With your finger on top of it to keep it in place, let it cool down \\ * Solder the other “leg”|While you can *technically* solder the Switch directly to the PCB, I highly recommend against it \\ It's very little cost, and unless you are 100% sure you won't want other switches, ever, it's worth to add them \\ Repairs are also much easier, since you can just swap the switch instead of having to solder it out| | | + | |06|Solder the Howswap Switch Sockets|* On the BOTTOM side of the PCB \\ * Remeber that the Socket will go in both ways, but only one way will leave the Hole Available for the Switch \\ * Put the Hotswap Socket In \\ * Heat up one leg / solder point and apply Solder \\ * With your finger on top of it to keep it in place, let it cool down \\ * Solder the other “leg”|While you can *technically* solder the Switch directly to the PCB, I highly recommend against it \\ It's very little cost, and unless you are 100% sure you won't want other switches, ever, it's worth to add them \\ Repairs are also much easier, since you can just swap the switch instead of having to solder it out|{{ : |
| - | |7|Solder / Bridge the Screen Pins| \\ * On the TOP side of the PCB \\ * Bridge the 4 Jumpers, by soldering them 2 by 2 Vertically \\ * Even if you don't plan on using the OLED Screens, still recommended, | + | |07|Solder / Bridge the Screen Pins|* On the TOP side of the PCB \\ * Bridge the 4 Jumpers, by soldering them 2 by 2 Vertically \\ * Even if you don't plan on using the OLED Screens, still recommended, |
| - | |8|Solder the TRRS / Reset Button / OLED Hotswap Socket| | + | |08|Solder the TRRS / Reset Button / OLED Hotswap Socket|* Solder the TRRS \\ * Solder the Reset Button \\ * If using a Screen, Solder in the Hotswap Socket| | | |
| - | |9|Final Test Pre-Assembly| | + | |09|Final Test Pre-Assembly|* Now it's a good point to put the Screen on and Check it everything works \\ * Bridging / Activating the Switches should also be working as expected| | | |
| - | |10|Solder the Underglow RGB| \\ * By far the most challenging solder, mainly on the dables \\ * Remember the Cable will go on the BOTTOM side \\ * Solder the 5V, Signal and GND with Cables \\ * Solder the cables to the holes in the PCB \\ * Remember that you can both solder the cables in the same direction or both pointing from in> outwards | + | |10|Solder the Underglow RGB|* By far the most challenging solder, mainly on the dables \\ * Remember the Cable will go on the BOTTOM side \\ * Solder the 5V, Signal and GND with Cables \\ * Solder the cables to the holes in the PCB \\ * Remember that you can both solder the cables in the same direction or both pointing from in> outwards| |{{ : |
| - | |11|Assemble the Case| \\ * Add Screws and Raisers to the Bottom Layer \\ * Add OLED Cover Screws and Raisers to PCB Layer \\ * PCB Layer on Top of Bottom Layer \\ * Dampening Layer \\ * Top Layer \\ * Everything Still Working? \\ * Switches \\ * OLED Covers \\ * Keycaps | + | |11|Assemble the Case|* Add Screws and Raisers to the Bottom Layer \\ * Add OLED Cover Screws and Raisers to PCB Layer \\ * PCB Layer on Top of Bottom Layer \\ * Dampening Layer \\ * Top Layer \\ * Everything Still Working? \\ * Switches \\ * OLED Covers \\ * Keycaps|If you have less layers, just skip the ones you don't have|{{ : |
| + | |12|If building Wireless, Battery time|* Solder the On / Off Switch to the board \\ * Solder the JST Plug to the Board \\ * Connect the Battery \\ \\ |A JST Plug - or similar - is ***HIGHLY*** recommended. \\ If you want a bigger battery (like the one on the photo), you need to get a " | ||
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